Shrove Tuesday is the day before the beginning of Lent in the Christian calendar. Around the world the day is observed in a variety of ways – in many English-speaking countries it is known as Pancake Day, in Brazil, it is the day of the Carnival. In French speaking countries as well as some states in the United States, it is known as Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday in French).
Known as vastlapäev in Estonia, Shrove Tuesday is a popular day with long-standing traditions that have been observed for centuries.
Although Shrove Tuesday is a Christian observance, the day was a part of the Estonian traditional folk calendar for centuries before Christianity.
Before we began using the name vastlapäev, the day was known as lihaheide (meat dismissal) and liugupäev (sliding day), indicating a period where meat was scarce and a belief that a long slide on a sled will bring fortune in the coming season.
Traditionally, by this day the meat, usually pork, stored by households for the winter was running out and only pork legs were left. Since the livestock were beginning to produce milk again, meat in our diets was mostly replaced by dairy until the beginning of spring.
It was also believed that the length of a sled ride down the hill would indicate how well linen would grow in the coming season, therefore many members of the household, especially the mistress of the house, would sled downhill on the day. Linen was an important material used to create fabric and the longer the linen plant, the more and better-quality fabric could be created and ultimately sold.
Sledding downhill is one tradition that has remained a part of Shrove Tuesday even in contemporary times. Nowadays sledding is mostly left to the children, and they simply see it as a fun pastime. Nevertheless, many still believe that a long slide will bring a fortunate year.
Traditionally, pork legs were eaten as the last meat left from the winter. The meat was cooked with peas or beans. Karask, a traditional Estonian soda bread was also a staple on old Estonian tables on Shrove Tuesday.
In contemporary times, the customary foods to eat on Shrove Tuesday in Estonia are hernesupp and vastlakukkel.
Hernesupp is a traditional pea soup that is prepared by boiling peas with vegetables and smoked pork meat, creating a hearty and filling soup with a distinct smoky flavour. Many families will prepare hernesupp at home or buy premade soup bases, which are widely available in supermarkets. Keep an eye on lunch specials in restaurants on Shrove Tuesday – some places might be serving hernesupp!
Vastlakukkel is a delicious soft cardamom bun with its top cut off and filled with whipped cream, sometimes also with jam. These buns are a popular treat among locals, most of whom will have a very strong opinion about which type of shrove bun is the best.
Most cafés in Tallinn will offer their own version of vastlakukkel during Shrovetide. You’ll also notice many places love to experiment with new forms or unique flavours. Varieties of vastlakukkel are also sold in supermarkets and many opt to make their own buns.